Ruchita Sweets & Tandoori Restaurant – Jackson Heights, Queens, NYC

Seems like I’m finding myself in Queens a lot these days, but that should come as no surprise considering this borough’s reputation as being home to some of the best Asian cuisine in NYC. When it comes to Jackson Heights in particular, a neighborhood known as “Little India,” you are confronted with the full range of food from India, not simply the north Indian (specifically Punjabi) specialties that we have come to know in the west as “Indian food.” In addition you have the massive Indian subcontinent represented with restaurants specializing in Nepali, Bhutanese, Tibetan, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi food. But where to go? What to order? Sometimes it’s all so overwhelming that you need some help.

So as I ventured out on an expedition to find some great Bengali food, I made sure I was accompanied by a native speaker. She took me directly to Ruchita Restaurant, a small, clean, fairly newish looking place that does not have a written menu. The guys working there that day did not speak much English either, so I would have been reduced to pointing at the various serving trays of curries—not entirely sure of what I was getting. Instead, I asked my friend to do the honors (with a few special requests by me), and in a few minutes our table was filled with all kinds of delectable dishes. This is what we ate:

Boal maach (mashed, fermented fish)

This fishy fermented paste is definitely an acquired taste. I could see liking it over time, but the first try was a shocker for my taste buds.

Aloo bhorth (mashed potato)

Think mashed potatoes laced with chilies and spices. Yum!

This bitter gourd, which was either steamed or boiled, was not at all bitter.

Bhetki bhortha (a white fish curry)

You can’t see the fish through the thick, spicy gravy here, but this light flaky steak reminded me of kingfish, and it tasted just as good!

quail curry

Wow! You don’t see quail too much. It’s a somewhat gamey bird like fowl or pigeon, but so small that you really have to work for the meat (and preferably have a few). Since this was not the only thing we were eating, however, I stopped at one.

lobster curry

I was really looking forward to this dish seeing as I love crustaceans so much, but unfortunately it was a little overcooked (and thus tough). The gravy, however, was so good it could be eaten alone.

In addition to providing an informative briefing on each of the dishes, my friend also explained that Bengali food is essentially folk or ‘peasant food,’ unlike, for example, the rich Mughal cuisine of Pakistan. Rice, fish, and legumes are the staples in Bangladesh. Breads are not popular as they are in India, and mustard oil, not ghee, is the main fat used in cooking. This ingredient already imparts each dish with a very characteristic taste, which distinguishes it from similar dishes from the region.  The food also had a pleasant kick to it, and if that wasn’t enough all the dishes were sprinkled with fresh, whole green chilies (which definitely scores points in my book). To top off the experience, we ate with our hands, which is standard practice for the full enjoyment of a Bengali meal. Talk about finger-licking good! I didn’t even have a chance to try the goat dishes this time–not enough room–but ‘ll be back for sure.

Ruchita Restaurant

35-68 73rd St.  (betw. 35^th and 37^th Ave)

Jackson Heights, NY 11372

(718) 424-3611

(photos courtesy of Laila’s Blackberry)

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CHRISTMAS IN THE GOOD OLD DAYS IN CEYLON

Colombo Port (all photos by SUMANACHANDRA ARIYAWANSA)

In honor of the season, I am reposting an article I recently received from a relative in Sri Lanka. It was written by an expat Sri Lankan, now living in Austrailia, Noel Crusz.

Here I am on the ocean liner THE PACIFIC SKY in the Coral Sea on a pre-Christmas voyage from Sydney to New Caledonia. The memories of how we celebrated Christmas in Sri Lanka come back. The house was painted, the walls white-washed with low black tar edgings all round the rooms and the chairs were re-cushioned. The travelling tailor came home, measured the rooms, and made the curtains on our old Singer sewing machine.

Red Mansion polish was applied on the cement floor, which got a shine from a heavy handled brush. Cake making was a ritual, where my mother laid the rules and we offered to help. We ate a good many cadjunuts and raisins when no one was looking. There was the wooden ice-box with sawdust and a heavy metal covering for slabs of ice.

The Khan Clock tower at Pettah Market, Colombo

Two weeks before Christmas the children were taken in a hired car to Pettah’s Main Street. The well known shoe store was T.G.M. Perera’s and we were fitted with the best shoes. Even Jamaliya’s Shoe Store in Wellawatta took in orders for boots, the teenage fashion of the thirties. Before World War II, there was Ono & Co. This Japanese toy shop owned by a Mr. Numano had a wonderful array of toys from Japan. The Main Street tailor measured us, as we provided China silk for our shirts. The silk of course was bought in early November from the Chinese peddlars who plied their trade on bicycles. Some of the Chinamen carried their bundles on their back, with a heavy stick for balance. Main Street in Pettah in the early thirties was very narrow. It had to cope with the tram lines and bullock carts.

Our Christmas shopping included a visit to X.P. Paivas for lunch and ice cream. Round the corner was The Rupee Store, where for one rupee you could buy many things. Millers, Cargills, Simes and Whiteaways dominated the Fort shopping. We went to Hunters and Siedles and The Roche Brothers shops for many items.

I cannot forget the shopping in the golden mile of Colpetty, Bambalapitiya and Wellawatta. The Wickremesinghe Brothers headed by George imported the famous Mende Radiograms from Germany. We cannot forget the well known shops in Wellawatta: M.P. Gomez, A.W. Jansz, J.B. De Pinto, Nooranis, Jamaliya’s Boot Works and many famous boutiques. As a boy I went with my father to A.W. Jansz’s store near High Street. We bought Dutch Edam Cheese, as an accompaniment for the Christmas breudher. I still remember Jansz bellowing to a tardy salesman: “What are you standing there shooting ‘papaws’! Jansz sold liquor and all types of hardware. We bought wire-netting to build chicken coops.

Colombo Harbor

The shopping spree in Colombo included a visit to Pilawoos for a treat of buriyani. Elephant House played a significant part in booking Christmas cakes. Yet there was one last item that was in the shopping list: Fireworks. We gazed in wonder at the array of fireworks in the Fireworks Palace opposite the Fort Railway Station. Sparklers, Roman candles, sky rockets, Catherine wheels, squibs, crackers of every size were there in the showcase.

Christmas was on. The cake was made and sent to the bakery. The servants were pounding and roasting, making string hoppers and pittu, cutting up A.W. Jansz ham, with cutlets and seeni sambol.

Churches saw long queues at the Confessional. I remember well the Allied troops celebrating Christmas in Ceylon. In the Seminary in St. Francis Zavier in Bambalapitiya, the African troops came for Midnight Mass. In Bandarawela, the Italian prisoners of war, brought tears when they sang the Adeste Fideles.

As I look out now at a placid sea, the Christmas memories for an expatriate find no sequence. There were Christmas trees from up-country estates sent by train. Carol parties on Christmas Eve went about in lorries. Arthur Van Langenberg helped me to stage a massive Christmas pageant on Christmas Eve at St. Lucia’s Cathedral Square in Kotahena. There were hundreds in the cast. The beautiful teenager Camille Cramer played Mary, as she was seated astride on a real donkey, led by a young doctor, who played Joseph. As Gerry Paul hit the Police drums, the donkey took off, with Joseph clinging to its tail, and the audience, including Mary in ripples of laughter.

As midnight came, there were a never-ending sound of fireworks and sky rockets, that would surely have awoken the Christ Child. Carol parties came to the doorstep. At Kawdana, children in costume came around singing Sinhala carols. A hand cart with an illuminated crib was the backdrop. They even brought a portable harmonium.

Of course the homes saw families sitting for a feast of string hoppers, ham, breudher, cheese, mulligatany and cake. There were presents near the family Christmas tree. The postman, the dhoby, the baker, the fishmonger were the regular Christmas early birds. They all got cash, plus a tot of arrack or gin.

As children we waited eagerly for the Sakkili Band. These were the poor men and women who carried the night soil buckets, before the water closet and drainage era. Many householders were generous in the cash tips they gave them. An extra pint of arrack helped them in their dance! The famous Kukul Charlie also made his trek down all the lanes. Those were the days when Donovan Andree dominated and enriched the local entertainment scene. Donovan brought down the Ice Follies.Soon night came once more. We lit our fireworks, saw the servants lighting the big Roman candles and sky rockets. The radio blasted yuletide melodies.

As my ship went on its voyage, I was dreaming not of a ‘White Christmas’, but of the Christmases I spent in Sri Lanka. Nowhere in the world did I ever experience Christmas, as the Ceylonese prepare and enjoy it. I can still hear the hustle and bustle in Pettah, the cries of the street vendors and the pavement hawkers. The wailing of the mamma-pappa balloon, the rattle of the toy-carts, and the delicacies from the gram sellers are unforgettable.

An Aussie Christmas is pea-nuts compared to a Christmas in Ceylon. I do not wonder why my parents christened me Noel, and my sister Noeline. I am reminded of J.P. de Fonseka who gave lustre to Christmas writing. He edited the Christmas issue of St. Mary’s parish bulletin in Bambalapitiya. He wrote: “St. Thomas Aquinas theology avoids the Christmas cake and wine and toys and crackers and family reunions of children and parents… He considers the mystery of the GOD man, without whom the Christmas wines rejoice not and the crackers crack in vain.”

The Galle Face Hotel

If you live in A Sri Lankan household, chances are someone is making Christmas Pudding in preparation for the holidays. Definitely a tradition passed on by the British, this is one of the richest, moistest desserts on the planet, and certainly not to be confused with dried out old fruit cake. As a child, I used to love how it was doused with brandy and brought flaming to the table to eat with either brandy sauce or custard.

Christmas Pudding

2 cups (500 ml) brown raisins

2 cups (500 ml) white raisins

1 cup (250 ml) currants

1 cup (250 ml) candied fruit mix, finely chopped

1 cup (250 ml) candied cherries, finely chopped

1 cup (250 ml) unsalted cashews, chopped

1 apple, grated

1 carrot, grated

1 tbsp. lemon peel, finely grated

1 tbsp. orange peel, finely grated

juice of 1 lemon

juice of 1 orange

1 tsp. ground cardamom, roasted

1 tsp. ground cloves, roasted

1 tsp. nutmeg, grated

1 cup (250 ml) sherry

1 cup (250 ml) brandy

1 cup (250 ml) butter

1 cup (250 ml) brown sugar

6 eggs

4 cups fresh breadcrumbs

2 cups (500 ml) flour

1.)   In a deep bowl, combine the fruit, nuts, peel, juices, spices, sherry and brandy. Cover tightly and leave overnight.

2.)  On the following day, cream the butter and sugar. Add eggs. Fold into fruit mixture.

3.)  Fold in breadcrumbs and flour alternately.

4.)     Fill stainless steel pudding bowls with mixture (2 inches from top) and cover each with 2 layers of parchment paper. Tie string around bowls so they are watertight. Cover with tin foil to further seal.

5.)   Place bowls in saucepans filled with hot water up to about 1/4 of the height of each bowl.

6.)   Steam puddings for 4 hours making sure that there is always enough water in the pans to cook them but not boil over.

7.)   Remove from heat and cool.

8.)  Remove original paper and cover with fresh parchment. Seal with foil and leave in a cool place.

9.)  On Christmas day, steam pudding for a further 2 hours and serve with custard or brandy sauce.

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No Reservations: Sri Lanka Revisited

One year ago this week, I was with Tony Bourdain and the crew of No Reservations filming the Sri Lanka episode, a very memorable experience. The whole show, which first aired in March of this year, is posted in segments on Youtube and embedded earlier up in this blog, but I also cobbled together some of my own footage to give you an idea of what its like behind-the-scenes. Respect to Tony, Jared, Tom, Todd & Jerry.

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Bownie Restaurant – Queens, NYC

The rice & curry lunch special at Bownie Restaurant

At the termination of the 7 Train and a good 15 minute hike through the residential blocks of Flushing, you will find a quiet and unassuming storefront serving “Authentic Sri Lankan & South Indian Cuisine.” I discovered the place when I came to check out Southern Spice, situated directly across the street. The Tamil lettering on the awning of Bownie Restaurant suggested I was in for some fairly spicy fare, and I was ready for a blast of heat on a cold, wet, and generally miserable day.

Inside, a couple tables filled with Sri Lankan men watched a Bollywood  film on the flat screen TV. Aside from that one amenity, Bownie is spare and basic—expect food served in plastic, take-out containers; plastic cutlery; fluorescent lighting; but also pleasant and prompt counter service.  We braved the weather for the food, anyway, and the menu looked enticing with its Idli’s and Dosas and Idiappam. When I visit a place for the first time, however, I like to go with the most basic dish to see if going further is even worth it. So we ordered the rice and curry lunch special which came with chicken curry, goat curry, dahl (lentils), eggplant, and rice (all at $6.50 each). We got a side of shrimp curry on top of that as well as a Mysore Masala Dosa.

goat curry

shrimp curry

chicken curry

The curries were decent—nothing to write home about, but not bad either. I think what threw me off a bit was their sweetness, probably derived from tamarind, as well as the fact that they lacked any note of heat. I don’t know, maybe it’s me. Perhaps a lifetime of eating chilies has singed my taste buds, but when I see Tamil or South Indian I obviously expect to feel the burn, and I feel robbed if I don’t.  The dahl was definitely up to par as was the eggplant curry, but as Sri Lankans often do, they overcooked the shrimp. The Mysore Masala Dosa, with its potato and green chili stuffing oozing out of a thin sourdough pancake, my friend found too spicy, but I found just right.  Next time I find myself in this neck of the woods in Queens, I will have to stick with the South Indian fare.

Mysore Masala Dosa

Bownie Restaurant

143-05 45^th Ave

Flushing, NY 11355

(718) 463-8621

open daily 10 AM – 10 PM

free delivery – Flushing area (minimum $25 order)

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Laksa Lemak

Laksa is a spicy soup of Malaysian origin, which gets its name from the rice noodles or rice vermicelli used to make it. But to me, this dish is all about the broth, and more specifically the spice paste used to spike the broth giving it that hearty red hue and tongue-numbing kick. I just had this for lunch on this cold, wet miserable day, and already I feel like I’ve been transported to the tropics.

Though usually a stickler for details, I did not feel like venturing out in this weather, so I improvised on some of the ingredients. First of all, I’m not a fan of tofu, so I left that out altogether. I didn’t have candlenuts or almonds as the recipe called for, but I did have walnuts, so they worked just as well. I also had eggs, though I forgot to use them. But believe me, the dish was rich and satisfying enough, and pretty simple to make as well.

You start with the paste. Apparently you can buy Laksa paste at Asian markets, but I elected to make my own from scratch. Some special ingredients you will need, however, are galangal (a ginger-like root that has a flavor all its own; used a lot in Thai cooking) and tamarind water (which you can make yourself by soaking pieces of the fruit in water or using a tamarind concentrate). Instead of a food processor, I used an old-fashioned mortar and pestle to grind the following together:

The Paste

1-2 large red chillies (I used 6-7 dried ones)

2 shallots, chopped (I used an onion)

1 garlic clove, chopped (I used about 3)

2 candle nuts, chopped or 1 tbsp. ground almonds

1 tsp chopped fresh ginger root

1 tsp chopped galangal

1 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp sea salt

2 tbsp tamarind water

2 tbsp peanut oil

the Laksa paste

Sure, it’s a little labor intensive, but you have to love what you are doing because love is the most important ingredient in any recipe. For me, the look and aroma of this paste slowly coming together was pure poetry—it’s what cooking is all about. After the paste is made, however, everything else easily falls into place. Here are the basic ingredients:

1 block Chinese tofu, about 14-16 oz. (400-450 g)

2-3 tbsp peanut oil

16 raw jumbo shrimp, cleaned and deveined

1 tsp. salt

1 1/4 quarts chicken or vegetable stock

1 1/4 cups thick coconut milk

8-12 oz (225-350 g) rice vermicelli, soaked in hot water for 5 minutes and drained

4-6 oz (115-175 g) bean sprouts

2 hard-boiled eggs, quartered

the broth after the addition of coconut milk

Once the broth is made, you can plate (or bowl, as it may be). Start with the drained rice noodles, top with shrimp and bean sprouts, and ladle over the broth

Also, as in most Asian soups, the garnishes are very important. The recipe called for chopped green onions, parsley, and deep-fried shallots. I added some fresh mint leaves, a squeeze of lime and a few dabs of fish sauce (Vietnamese style).

When you put it all together, you get a dish that is rich, spicy, flavorful, and very satisfying. This recipe came from the book Curry Cuisine, but I have to thank my friend Tesalia who includes her own recipe for Laksa on her blog, cooksandspoons for the inspiration.

Method:

1)    First make the paste by blending those ingredients together until smooth. Transfer to a small pan and cook over moderate heat for 4 minutes, stirring. Remove from heat and set aside.

2)    Cut the tofu into quarters, then cut each quarter into quarters again (handling carefully). Heat oil in a frying pan and sauté tofu chunks until they have a skin. Drain on paper towels.

3)    Rub the shrimp with salt and ste aside. Bring the stock to a boil in a large saucepan. Stir in the paste and boil for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook for 2 minutes, then remove them with a slotted spoon and set aside in a bowl.

4)    Pour the coconut milk into the stock and bring back to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes while you distribute the noodles, shrimp and tofu pieces among the serving bowls. Then put the bean sprouts and hard-boiled egss over the shrimp and tofu.

5)    Adust the seasoning of the soup and bring to a boil. Then ladle the soup over the bowls and garnish.

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