Pan Asian: Rendang Padang (Indonesia)

This fairly simple one-pot dish is named after Padang, the capital of the western Sumatran province from where it originates. “Padang food” also refers to a style of Indonesian cooking which is spicier than the normal fare.

The slow-cooking allows the meat to absorb all the rich flavors—of the coconut milk, lemongrass, galangal—also making this dish ideal for a crock pot or slow cooker. So you can throw everything in in the morning and come back home in the evening for a delightful dinner—served, of course, with rice.

One of the more popular choices at an Indonesian or Malaysian restaurant, Rendang Padang is now a dish you can make it at home (and so simply).

The Recipe

3 lbs. beef stew meat, cut into 1-2 inch chunks

8 fresh hot cayenne or other red chilies, stemmed and chopped

1/2 small onion, chopped

1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

1-inch piece fresh galangal, peeled and chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 stalk lemongrass, tough outer layer remived, tender insides finely sliced

1/3 cup tamarind  paste, mixed with 1/3 cup warm water

1 Tsp. ground cumin

1 Tsp. ground coriander

1 Tsp. ground turmeric

1/2 Tsp. chili powder

1 (15 oz.) can unsweetened coconut milk

2 Tsp. sugar

salt to taste

1.)   Put beef in a 4-quart slow cooker

2.)   In a food processor of blender, combine the chilies, onion, ginger, galangal, garlic, lemongrass, tamarind paste, 1 cup warm water, and spices. Process to a smooth puree and pour over beef. Stir in coconut milk and cook, covered, on the low setting for 5-6 hours, or until beef is very tender and the sauce is dark brown in color.

3.)   Ladle most of the sauce into a saucepan and cook over medium-high heat until slightly  thickened and reduced, about 30 minutes, then pour it back in the cooker. Cook uncovered on high setting for 30 minutes to an hour longer.

4.)   Stir in sugar and season with salt to taste.

Serve with rice

Serves 6-8

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A Meeting With The President

"Yes, I think I'd make a great Minister of Culture, Mr. President."

[Though this is not a post about food, I thought my fellow Sri Lankans would appreciate it.]

Last month Sri Lankan President Mahinda Rajapaksa visited New York to address the United Nations. To mark the occasion the Sri Lankan embassy and consulate hosted a reception at the grand Waldorf Astoria Hotel on Park Avenue to which I somehow received an invitation. To be honest, I would not have gone had it not been for my mother’s prodding, since she, too, received an invite. So I packed my only suit and headed up to Manhattan.

I wasn’t sure what to expect aside from tight security since this was the culmination of the week in which world leaders descend upon Gotham city for the U.N. Summit. Sure enough, plenty of New York’s finest lingered outside the hotel—as well as all over the streets—and we had to pass through airport metal detectors before emerging into the congested Waldorf lobby. Here the scene was wall-to-wall with well-dressed Sri Lankans waiting for a few seconds of face-time or perhaps just a handshake or snapshot with the Sri Lankan leader. I recognized one familiar face from DC who told me that quite a few Sri Lankans from DC and Virginia  had also driven up for the event.

No sooner had the doors to the Empire Room opened than the fashionable mob aligned itself in one direction like a flock of migrating geese. Luckily I happed to be on the side closest to the entrance, so I got in without much fuss, but it still felt like “queing” up for a bus in Sri Lanka with all the requisite pushing and shoving (despite all the designer labels).

Once inside, I was pleased to have first dibs on all the food and drink, but I wasn’t prepared for the actual menu—roast turkey, pasta, mini grilled cheese sandwiches—which seemed more fitting for a PTA meeting. Where were all the familiar short eats—the cutlets, patties, and Chinese rolls—that one came to expect at gatherings of the spicy crowd?  After all, at a Sri Lankan function you’d think they’d serve stuff we like to sink out teeth into. I was relieved when one of the roaming waiters brought around a tray of vadai, but unfortunately that was my first, and last vadai of the evening. Hors d’oeuvre tables lined the perimeter of the room, but my mother later informed me that I missed the one serving Sri Lankan specialties.

After the Empire Room was filled with a crowd of about 300-400, two Kandyan drummers began their rat-a-tat to announce the entry of the guest of honor. Large video cameras donned their spotlights and all manner of cell phones and digital cameras materialized from peoples’ pockets. Once again, I was lucky to be on the side of the room where the president and first lady made their entrance.

After doing a little loop with their entourage of embassy people, security personnel and paparazzi, the President and Mrs. Rajapaksa settled into a corner of the room where they proceeded to stand and pose for pictures with people for the next two hours. I could see that both of them were tired after what must have been an event-filled week, yet they managed to maintain their patience and good humor. I can imagine that everywhere they go they are gawked at in a similar manner, and I didn’t notice either of them having even a bite of food or a sip to drink the entire time. Wow, it must be kind of tough being a world leader.  I almost felt sorry for them–so much so that I didn’t want to join the line to pay my respects.

Then I figured, what the heck. I had met Prime Minister Sirimavo Bandarnaike when I was four years old at the embassy in DC. Later at age 10, I had tripped over President J.R. Jayawardene at a wedding at the Mount Lavinia Hotel. Might as well meet my third Sri Lankan leader. By now the line was thinning out and there was not a long wait. But what does one say? I shook hands with Mrs. Rajapaksa first, since most people were not giving her the time of day. Then to the president I said: “Thanks for winning the war, Mr. President. I was just in Jaffna in May and it’s amazing. There’s still a lot to do, of course, but if anyone can do it, it’s you.” He looked me in the eye and smiled. I think that means he’s going to take my advice.

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Speaking of Curry: Skiz on the airwaves

I had the pleasure of being on a great radio show in Brooklyn on Monday. The Heritage Radio Network, which operates in a container in the backyard of Roberta’s Pizza (261 Moore St. in the Bushwick section of BK), is heavy on the food programming, and I was invited by host Cathy Erway to be on her show, “Let’t Eat In.”

For those of you not familiar with Cathy, she is a dedicated foodie and author of the recent book, The Art of Eating In (Penguin Books) in which she chronicles her two years of not eating out in New York–quite a feat when you consider the endless culinary offerings of this world class food mecca. Her book actually started out as a blog, which is interesting, as my blog started out as a book, and I have been to several of the food events  Cathy is involved in–including the most recent (and may I say excellent) edition of Hungry Filmmakers screenings in Manhattan. So it was cool to kick it one-on-one with her, and on one of my favorite topics–curry.

You can check out the whole 30-minute program here:

http://www.heritageradionetwork.com/episodes/1090-Let-s-Eat-In-Episode-47-S-H-Fernando-Jr

All that talking about food made us hungry, so afterwards we enjoyed a nice green salad with walnuts and camembert cheese, and beautiful thin-crust Marguerita pizza courtesy of Roberta’s, which made me think: I need to devise a spicy, curry style pizza one of these days.

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Pan Asian: Curried Duck (Trinidad)

Trinidad & Tobago (2 islands, 1 country), a tiny Caribbean nation located not far off the coast of Venezuela, reminds me a lot of Sri Lanka. First of all, many people don’t know exactly where it is. Secondly, the country’s history is a mish-mosh of colonial influences  (from Spanish to Dutch to French, and finally English) coupled with outside emigration (Chinese, African, and East Indian). Finally, the food tends to be on the spicier side with many dishes brought from the east by indentured servants from India who settled there between 1851-1917. To be honest, I knew little about Trinidad outside of its food, which I love so much, until my friend Ramin Ganeshram sent me her new cookbook, Sweet Hands: Island Cooking from Trinidad and Tobago (Hippocrene Books). Now I finally have the secret formulas to make all that Trini food that I crave!

 

The first dish that comes to mind when I think of Trinidad is curried duck. I first had it at a get together of my Trini ex-girlfriends family, and have loved it ever since. I usually enjoy it rolled up in a dalpuri roti (a flatbread stuffed with ground yellow split peas), but this time I made some pigeon peas and rice and a side of channa aloo (chickpea curry with potatoes) to accompany it. Be sure to get some authentic Trinidad curry powder at a Caribbean store, and I recommend using fresh herbs to make the green seasoning (though you can buy it in a jar as well).

 

The book itself is great and has a full range of recipes from mains to desserts to pickles and spice blends.  Ramin also sheds a lot of light on Trini history and culture in general, making this as informative as it is useful.

Sweet Hands by Ramin Ganeshram

Curried Duck

 

1 (4 lb.) duck, cut into 8 pieces with bones and skin removed

juice of 1 lime

3 Tbsp. green seasoning (see below)

1/4 cup Trinidad curry powder

2 Tbsp. canola oil

1 Scotch bonnet or other hot red chili pepper

coarse or kosher salt to taste

 

 

1.)   Mix duck pieces with lime juice, and then rinse with water, drain, and pat dry. Add the green seasoning and toss to coat. Set aside in refrigerator for at least 3 hours and up to overnight.

 

2.)   Make a paste of the curry powder and 1/4 cup water. Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium-low heat. Mix well and cook, stirring constantly for 1 to 2 minutes or until the curry has a grainy consistency.

 

3.)   Add the duck pieces and turn to coat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook until all the liquid has evaporated.

 

4.)   Add some salt and additional water to just cover the meat. Simmer for 45 minutes or until meat is tender. Remove the hot pepper before serving.

 

Serve hot with rice or roti

 

Makes 6-8 servings

 

Green seasoning

 

This spice mixture, unique to the Caribbean, is used frequently in Trinidadian cuisine.  One of the main components, shado beni, otherwise known as Mexican cilantro, can be substituted by regular cilantro.

 

3 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives

1 Tbsp. chopped fresh shado beni or cilantro

2 Tbsp. chopped fresh thyme

1 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano

1 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley

4 cloves garlic, minced

 

1.)   Process all ingredients in a food processor until the mixture forms a thick paste. (Alternatively use a blender and add 2 Tbsp. vinegar)

2.)   Use Immediately or store in a tightly sealed glass jar in the fridge for up to 1 week.

 

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Pan Asian: Kadhai Paneer (Stir-fry of paneer cheese with peppers) – India

 

Kadhai Paneer

 

The kadhai or karahi, a large rounded pan ideal for stir-frying, is India’s answer to the wok. Paneer is of course, a curd cheese with a mild taste and firm texture popular in India. Put the two together and you get this quick vegetarian stir-fry, which is fast becoming an Indian staple as people work longer hours but still demand fast, tasty food.

Though I confess to being a confirmed carnivore, I would eat this delicious dish any day, and I think you’ll dig it as well!

Kadhai Paneer

1 Tbsp. ghee or corn oil

1/2 Tsp. crushed dried chilies

2 red or yellow peppers, seeded and cut into strips

1 red onion, sliced

1 lb. 5 oz. (600 g) paneer, cut into batons

2 Tbsp cilantro leaves, chopped

1/2 Tsp. dried fenugreek leaves, crumbled

2-inch piece of ginger, peeled and julienned

Basic kadhai sauce:

1/3 cup ghee or corn oil

1 oz. garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 Tbsp. coriander seeds, coarsely pounded

8 red chilies, coarsely pounded in a mortar

2 onions, finely chopped

2-inch piece ginger, finely chopped

1 lb. 10 oz. (750 g) fresh ripe tomatoes, finely chopped

2 Tsp. salt

1 Tsp. garam masala

1 1/2  Tsp. dried fenugreek leaves, crumbled

1 Tsp. sugar (optional)

1.)   Start by making the sauce: Heat ghee in pan and add garlic. Stir, then add coriander seeds and red chilies. When they release their aromas, add the onions and cook until golden. Stir in ginger, green chilies, and tomatoes. Reduce heat to low and cook until all excess moisture has evaporated and the fat starts to separate out. Add the salt, garam masala, and fenugreek leaves and stir. Taste and add sugar if needed.

2.)   For the stir-fry: Heat the ghee in a kadhai, wok, or large frying pan. Add the crushed chilies, pepper strips, and red onion. Stir and sauté over high heat for under a minute, then add the paneer and stir for another minute.

3.)   Add the sauce and mix well. Once everything is heated through, check for seasoning, adding salt if required. Finish with fresh cilantro, fenugreek leaves and lemon juice. Garnish with ginger and serve with naan or rice.

Serves 4-6

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