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Archive for June, 2012

2012 Summer Fancy Food Show in DC, June 17-19, 2012

One of the biggest deals in the food world is the NASFT Fancy Food show, which takes place twice a year–in San Francisco in the winter, and either New York or DC in the summer. Hundreds of exhibitors from all over the world come together to debut their new products, and the rest of the food industry follows. Unfortunately, this exclusive event/feeding frenzy is not open to the public.

After having just attended my third Fancy Food Show, I can honestly say that the novelty has worn off, but that doesn’t mean it’s still not (literally) a gas to eat your way through two floors–and we’re talking two floors which are each the size of a football field, crammed with booths bursting with free samples of the latest fine foods to hit the market–at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center in DC. Actually, grazing is a better word to describe what one does at a Fancy Food show, because you’re really getting a ‘tasting menu’ of small bites and bits supplied by the 1000 plus vendors, as opposed to a full meal (though what you will consume in a day is probably the equivalent of several big meals). Of course, the bigger companies like Fage (pronounced “Fah-yay,” as I discovered) can afford to give you a whole container of their superior Greek yogurt, which you’ll probably want to eat right on the spot. Those probiotics will come in handy for the heavy digestion ahead. But it’s also essential to bring a few empty bags to take away the endless shwag you accumulate visiting booth after booth. You’ll be eating for days afterwards from all the booty you copped at Fancy Food.

I remember my first time down on the feasting floor, eating a path down aisle one, and turning down nary a free mouthful until the motley contents of my stomach eventually caught up with me. It doesn’t pay to be too eager (read: greedy) at Fancy Food or else you might find yourself doubled over in pain and bowing before the porcelin messiah. But far from being a glutton, this time I was a study in restraint, putting only those things I really wanted to try into my pie hole; asking for smaller bites than were offered; and even observing several “no eating” breaks to allow time for some precious digestion. When eating becomes such a serious business, the key to surviving the three days of the convention is to pace yourself.

As a veteran, I can afford to be a little jaded at this point as well, and let you know that not everything I encountered at this convention qualified as “fancy.” What the hell was Hormel doing there for example? Potted meats I can do without–not to mention the guy at one of the China booths who was selling MSG by the ton. Hasn’t word got around that we are at least trying to be healthy? I guess the recession is news worldwide because I noticed a lot of the same bigger companies (who can afford to be here) exhibiting and not as many new, smaller vendors. Still, there was plenty to see, smell, and taste.

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In previous years I focussed on the incursion of ethnic foods or did a rundown of the latest hot sauces to hit the market, but this year, since there was less of both, I’m just sort of highlighting products I liked or found interesting . The Caribbean section, which used to be good for a scorching selection of hot sauces, for example, was reduced to only about 5 or 6 booths this time around. I still managed, however, to find some interesting hot sauces from some unlikely places.

a selection of hot sauces

Don Joaquin from Ecuador uses passion fruit to add sweetness to their heat while Mi Madre’s Pique from Puerto Rico doesn’t even bother grinding whole chilies, garlic, peppercorns and spices to create their ‘rustic’ looking salsa. While neither is super spicy, both are big on flavor. I was also able to pick up samples of my old standby, Mexico’s El Yucateco, made with nothing less than the hottest habaneros as well as some Iguana sauces from Florida, which come in a whole range of great flavors. My favorite sauce, however, was the straight orange habanero puree from Interfoods, which I plan to use to create my own customized hot sauce.

With the breakout success of Indian food and Asian food in general over the past year, I expected to see  a whole slew of newer Asian products at this years’ show, but sadly, I think the economy has thwarted such an expansion. Tandoori Chef, purveyors of the frozen naan pizza, maintained its presence, however, joined by smaller companies such as Maya Kaimal and Sukhi’s, which was serving up plates of Indian food better than many restaurants. In addition to their line of frozen foods, and their trademark Naanwich, I’m excited to try Sukhi’s Vindaloo Curry Sauce since their stuff tastes authentic–especially the tangy cilantro yoghurt chutney I had with my samosa.

Aside from the odd Korean and Thai vendor, the Asian representation at this years’ show was a bit of a disappointment, though there were a couple pleasant surprises. Since I’m not so familiar with Filipino Food, it was nice to run into Mama Sita, who was hawking her line of Filipino sauces and mixes. She was also good enough to give me a cookbook with a variety of Filipino dishes that I will definitely try as well as a spice mix for Sinigang Sa Sampalok, a prawn soup made with Tamarind . Another Filipino lady, representing the company Sun Tropics, was debuting calamansi juice, a typical citrus fruit from the Phillipines that tastes like a cross between a lime and a tangerine. Calamansi is one of those products which is not so easy to find in the U.S., but I guess those days are behind us now.

Calamansi juice…..Yummm!

watermelon art at the Thai Feast booth

Speaking of Asian flavors, I am very happy to witness the day that Sriarcha sauce has become a mainstream condiment, speaking volumes on the evolution of the American palette. I, who routinely douse everything with Sriracha, was pleasantly surprised to find those crunchy dried peas usually flavored with wasabi, now available with a coating of spicy, garlicky Sriracha.

Yaaaayy!! Sriracha peas have arrived!

Being partial to anything coconut, I was also excited about several new products from the palm tree to hit the U.S. market. The first is Dang‘s toasted coconut chips from Thailand. Slightly sweet/salty with a great coconut taste, I could think of a myriad uses for these little chips–first and foremost as a topping for ice cream. I just wish Vincent, the company’s Chief Culinary Officer, had been a little more forthcoming with some samples so I could test them out because I already finished the small pack he gave me on the way home.

move over potatoes — how about a bowl of these sweet/salty toasted coconut chips?

Another coconut product I’m psyched about is Kelapo‘s Coconut oil spray. In the west, we are just finding out about the health benefits of coconuts, and this product makes it both easy and convenient to use coconut oil in baking, salads, or whatever. And I might add that none other than Sri Lankan coconuts are used to make this oil, which is another plus because the coconut oil we have there is organic and unprocessed. Incidentally, I also came across several olive oil sprays and even a balsamic vinegar spray.

The spray craze has arrived — olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and coconut oil

Speaking of balsamic vinegar, there were plenty of different types to try, but the most interesting product I found was the balsamic ketchup from Di Nigris. Regular ketchup is made from white vinegar, so why not subsititute some black balsamic vinegar instead? It tasted just as good if not better.

One last coconut product worth mentioning would be Maggi‘s coconut powder. Owned by Nestle, Maggi is a name well-known in Asia, but virtually unknown in the U.S. While several brands of canned coconut milk are currently available here, Maggi is finally bringing over their powdered coconut milk, which should make cooking Asian food a lot easier. Did I also mention that they get their coconuts from Sri Lanka?

Sri Lanka is one of the few countries that is not usually well represented at Fancy Food, but this time I ran into several Sri Lankans–even a whole family represented Chami Tea. Dilmah Tea, one of the largest independent Sri Lankan tea producers, also showed for the first time at Fancy Food.

Sri Lankan Chami Teas — a family business

Fancy Food is a great place to be introduced to products from abroad as I would estimate that roughly a quarter of all exhibitors represent foreign countries. One of the stranger new products I came across this year, in fact, came from Peru. Having just visited that country in March I was curious to try Kaptive, their new energy drink made from coca leaves, which have a very unique and bitter taste. People in Peru routinely chew coca leaves–especially for relief from the high altitudes in the Andes–which contain the active ingredient of cocaine (though in miniscule amounts). While I was not surprised to see an energy drink made of coca leaves, I was puzzled to learn that its active ingredient–the cocanoids–had been removed. So what gave these drinks their energy? The print on the bottle was too small to read. But the drink itself tasted good–much more than I can say for chewing coca leaves.

Kaptive energy drinks, made with coca leaves

As with every Fancy Food show, there is inevitably a surplus of fine chocolate, most of it organic and dark and sourced from practically every tropical clime in the world. But some of the best bars I tasted this time came from Germany. Ritter Sport, with their trademark square bar, is a favorite for everyday consumption. Surprise, surprise: I also discovered a funky new product out of Germany called IChoc by Vivani. These vaguely i-pod shaped bars each bear a different musical motif, but what makes them special is their intense flavor. I tried “Beat Berry,” which was brimming with dried raspberry shavings which also gave it a nice crunch. Meanwhile “GoGo Mango,” a white chocolate bar laced with yogurt and pieces of dried mango was the clear winner. Wow! And I’m not even usually a fan of white chocolate.

A GoGo Mango IChoc bar from Germany

One thing I do love, however, is pie, and while I did  not come across any pies, per se, I did discover that a respected brand of ready made pie crust, Wholly Wholesome, now comes in a gluten free variety.

Wholly Wholesome’s new gluten free pie crust

Last year, I feel like I came away from the show with more free stuff (i.e. “shwag), but this year, some of the shwag was more impressive. I certainly can’t beat the rice cooker that the Thai Rice Board gave me last year, but Good Fellas Foods came mighty close with a package that was delivered to me only days after the convention. No dead fish in that delivery, but rather an apron, a cookbook from the late mobster Henry Hill, and 2 bottles of their awesome sauce, which I will sure be enjoying.

Best in Shwag: an apron, cookbook, and 2 jars of sauce from Goodfellas Foods

There were also some very strange freebies to be had. For anyone who thinks the bacon craze has died down, for example, guess again. One booth was not only giving out samples of their bacon lip balm but, yes, I hate to say it, bacon lube….

Bacon lube? That’s just wrong.

No celebrity sightings this time, although I did run into Aarti Sequeira, the Indian host of Food Network’s Aarti Party, which started off as a her own self-produced cooking show on YouTube. Hey, that means there’s still hope for Pan Asian…

me and Food Network Star Aarti Sequeira

Though noticeably scaled back, this year’s Fancy Food did seem to have more alcohol–from French, Spanish, and Italian wines, to German and Belgian beers, to all manner of Mexican tequila and mescal. I would spend at least a segment of each day boozing it up, not for a buzz, but rather to burn some of the calories sitting in my stomach. I was also happy to see my drink of choice up in the mix this time I around: Cachaca from Brasil. Thanks to the folks at Tatuzinho, I must have ended every day of Fancy Food 2012 with a couple caipirinhas! Salute!

Brasilian Cachaca — the drink of champions!

And here’s my little space in the Buyer’s Best Friend booth:

Skiz’s Original debuts at 2012 Fancy Food Show in DC!

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My default method of cooking mussels has always been the French way–with white wine, garlic, shallots, olive oil,  lemon, and parsley. Simple and delicious, this dish paired with some French bread, to sop up the flavorful liquid, and maybe a green salad makes for a tasty, satisfying meal. Of course, I’ve had mussels prepared the Asian way, as well, but I always considered them just a bit too complicated. That is, until I discovered this new recipe for Mussels with Black Bean and Coriander. Coriander, of course, is another word for cilantro, a herb that smacks of freshness and flavor. When mashed up, the black beans add a saltiness and texture to this dish that is balanced by the acidity of the lime juice and the sweetness of the sugar. Throw in some ginger and garlic for added flavor, and the cilantro leaves at the end, and you have what amounts to my new favorite way of preparing mussels.

The Recipe

2 lbs. mussels

1 tablespoon peanut oil

2 tablespoons canned, salted black beans, rinsed and mashed

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 long fresh red chilies, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh cilantro roots, finely chopped

¼ cup Chinese rice wine or dry sherry

2 tablespoons lime juice

2 teaspoons sugar

½ cup fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped

1.)  Scrub the mussels  with a stiff brush to remove any dirt or grit. Remove any beards. Discard any open mussels that don’t close when tapped.

2.)  Heat oil in a large, deep lidded pan. Add black beans, garlic, ginger, chili, and coriander root and cook cook over low heat for 2-3 minutes, until fragrant.

3.)  Add wine and increase heat to high. Add half the mussels in a single layer and cover with tight fitting lid. Cook for 2-3 minutes or until the mussels have just opened. Discard any that do not open. Remove from pan and repeat with the remaining mussels.

4.)  Transfer the mussels to a serving dish leaving the cooking liquid in the pan. Add the lime juice, sugar, and coriander leaves to the pan and cook for 30 seconds. Pour the sauce over the mussels and serve immediately with rice.

Serves 4

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rice & curry in DC

This past Friday I had the pleasure of hosting another Sri Lankan Supper Club–this time in the nation’s capital at a fairly new space known as Montserrat House on 9th & U Streets (www. montserrathouse.com). Once again, those patrons who plunked down $50 for a full rice & curry meal with appetizers and dessert, went away, I believe, fully satisfied and with a much deeper appreciation of Sri Lankan food. It’s astounding that such a diverse metropolis as DC does not have a Sri Lankan restaurant–especially since there’s quite a few Sri Lankans in the DC/MD/VA area–so that would probably account for the dinner selling out pretty quickly. But aside from a handful of people familiar with the cuisine, few really knew what to expect, so I had to treat them to the typical kind of meal that we are accustomed to on the island. The menu, all of which comes from my book, Rice & Curry: Sri Lankan Home Cooking, was as follows:

Appetizers

fish cutlets

beef patties

masal vadai

Mains

Basmathi rice

black pork curry

fish ambul thiyal (sour fish curry)

parippu (lentils stewed in coconut milk)

mallun (sauteed greens)

eggplant moju ( caramelized eggplant)

coconut sambol

Sri Lankan salad

pappadum

mango chutney

mixed pickle

Dessert

Wattalapam (coconut flan)

Since all of the main dishes in a rice & curry meal are served together, Sri Lankans don’t usually eat appetizers, so I used some popular street foods, usually eaten as snacks, to pique peoples’ appetites. Cutlets, patties, and vadai are also, ironically, the most labor intensive part of the menu. With the Montserrat’s deep fryer out of commission for the evening, we also had the fry both the cutlets and vadais in small batches on the stove top. That’s how I usually do it at home, so while more time consuming, it was no big deal in the end.

breading & frying the cutlets is very labor intensive…

…but well worth the effort!

beef patties, fresh out of the oven

Using a kitchen you’re not familiar with presents all kinds of challenges. For example,  I didn’t bother to check and see if an oven I was heating up some dishes in was working. I only found out minutes before we were to begin plating that the food was still cold. Once again, improvisation is key, as we quickly heated up stuff in saute pans on the stove top. Though it did delay the dinner service a little bit, no one complained and, in fact, everyone was very happy with their meal.

I usually like to document everything that I make at these dinners, but because we had to get the food out to the 50 customers in a hurry, I only had time to snap a few shots of the finished plates.

from left to right: pappadum, fish, pork, eggplant, dahl, greens, coconut sambol, and salad–served on a banana leaf as they do in Sri Lanka

I did, however,  manage to get some nice shots of the condiments, which people could help themselves to at the table.

the condiments: mango chutney and mixed pickle

some fresh green and red chilies–only for the brave

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And, of course, no meal would be complete without a decadent dessert. In Sri Lanka, the overwhelming choice is usually wattalapam, a flan made of coconut milk, eggs, and jaggery (palm sugar).

for dessert, coconut flan

I was able to mingle with guests after the dessert service, and the feedback I received from everyone made it well worth all the effort. I have to send a special shout to my servers, Greg & Gillian, and my sous chef for the evening, Wilma Consul, for all their help. Also shouts out to Eric and Elliot at Montserrat House for having a cool place and making this event possible.

me and sous chef Wilma

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Anjappar — located at Lexington Ave. & E. 28th St in Manhattan’s “Curry Hill”

I have long been a fan of Chettinad food ever since I ate at the Anjappar Restaurant in Colombo, Sri Lanka. Yes, Anjappar is a chain, that happens to have locations all over the world–including the Middle East, U.S., Canada, Singapore and Malaysia. They finally made it to one of the biggest foodie towns in the world–good old NYC–to which I say, ‘What took you so long?’ But, really, ‘Better late than never,’ is more apropos. For despite its status as a franchise  (like Mickey D’s or Burger King), Anjappar serves up some of the tastiest, most authentic Chettinad food, this side of Chennai.

And just what is Chettinad cuisine, you ask? Unlike much southern Indian food, which is mostly vegetarian, the Chettiars, a merchant caste in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu, who comprise about 14% of the population, do relish their chicken, mutton, and fish. And the way they prepare those meats is unlike any other Indian food you’ve ever eaten.

Mutton Sukka Varuval
(Fresh tender cuts of goat marinated in crushed pepper corns fried with chopped onions and curry leaves

Take, for instance, the Mutton Sukka Varuval, whose description in the menu does this dish absolutely no justice. Goat, usually a tough customer, comes out moist and tender here, coated in a fragrant paste of spices–including coriander, cumin, fennel, cardamom, cloves–ginger and garlic with fried onions and curry leaves to push it over the top on the flav-o-meter. Such complexity and layering of flavors is the hallmark of this cooking. My only criticism was that there was not enough chilies in the mix, which probably would not have been the case had I been served this dish in Chennai (Madras). Maybe I should have gone for the Chicken 65, boneless cubes of chicken breast marinated in a variety of spices that is supposedly super-hot. The only problem was that my lunch companion was vegetarian, so I did not want to order half the menu only to eat it myself.

The kingfish Thali meal

While he opted for the Chettinadu traditonal vegetarian Thali meal for a main course, I got the Kingfish thali. Both meals came with rice, chappathi, sambar, rasam, kootu, poriyal, lime pickle, curd, and pappad–all standard South Indian veg dishes–while mine came with an extra side of Kingfish masala curry made with a tamarind flavored gravy. Though tasty, the portion of fish was tiny, and I was glad I had ordered the mutton to supplement it.

 

Anjappar also features biriyani, and a selection of south Indian breads such as dosais, parathas, and utthupams. There were also some prawn and crab specials, but way above my budget for lunch. Your best bet is to come here with a bunch of people so you can order several dishes and try a bit of everything because I suspect everything here is good! Even the ambience and tasteful decor of the place proved very relaxing, and the service was up to snuff, making Anjappar a place that demands another visit.

 

a cool and comfortable interior makes for an enjoyable dining experience

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