Just got back from a trip to Peru, fulfilling a long-time dream of visiting the amazing site of Machu Picchu, but I also had a chance to spend a few days in Lima, and sample some fabulous food. This coastal capital is known for its fresh seafood, especially the ceviche, a dish of raw fish ‘cooked’ in citrus, cilantro and spices.
I had heard of this place called La Rosa Nautica, located at the end of a lone wharf jutting out into the Pacific, in the ritzy Miraflores neighborhood of Lima, and decided to check it out for dinner. But earlier in the day while poking around a local street market or mercado, I found a small unassuming stall selling this Peruvian specialty, and decided I couldn’t wait to try a plate of ceviche–especially for a mere 5 soles (less than US $2).
I found chunks of white fish practically swimming in a marinating liquid of lime, cilantro, red onions, and a hint of chili, topped with fried calamari and a side of sweet potato. They also serve these toasted corn kernels (chulpi), which I observed people dumping onto their plates of ceviche to add a crunchy textural counterpoint to the tender fish. The marinating liquid, I discovered, is known as leche de tigre (“tiger’s milk”), and is a much prized part of the whole ceviche experience. With this little lunch lesson under my belt, I was ready for dinner.
But first, it took some serious walking to help work up an appetite, and while checking out the neighborhood of Miraflores, I was even able to visit some ruins. Huaca Pucllana, which lies smack in the middle of this very upscale urban district, is not of Inca origin, but the remnants of a much-earlier site built by the Lima, after whom the city is named. The huge, adobe-brick complex is is still being excavated and restored.
With the sight-seeing complete, and the sun sinking into the Pacific, it was time to settle down to some serious eating. Since much of Lima’s coastline are cliffs, in order to get down to the sea-level restaurant, it was necessary to take a cab, which drops you at the landward side of a long wharf. When you stroll its entire length, you finally arrive at the well-lit, two storey wooden structure known as La Rosa Nautica. Opened by Chef Eduardo Castanon, 28 years ago, one can tell that Nautica is obviously a Lima institution for even a Monday night found the place bustling and crowded. Luckily there were still some seats available outside, so we could eat with the lulling crash of the waves and a cool sea breeze.
For an appetizer I ordered the ceviche colorado, a mixture of raw flounder, shrimp, octopus and squid with a side of chili pepper and key lime, spicy cream, a shot glass of leche de tigre, and garnished with the fried corn kernels or chulpi, shredded carrots, and red onions. To be completely honest, the only difference between this plate and my lunch was the additional seafood.
For my main course, I had to try another Peruvian specialty called Arroz con pato a la chiclayana (tender duck stewed in black beer and cilantro). Served over a bed of herbed rice, the duck was superb and practically melting in my mouth. My friend Susan ordered the Rosa Nautica seafood rice, “creole style,” with stewed chilis, seafood, vegetables, and chopped cilantro. A kind of Peruvian paella, the dish came chock full of shrimp, squid, octopus, and scallops.
Both plates were well-presented with a substantial amount of food with the added benefit being the beautiful ocean view. I don’t mind paying more for such fine dining, but my only gripe with La Rosa Nautica is that when we looked at the bill, they actually charged us for the bread! I think this is first in my lifetime of dining out. Charging 16 soles (about US $5.87) for the 4 rolls we ate before dinner came to more than double what I had paid for my ceviche at lunch. Now you are forewarned. If you go to La Rosa Nautica, bypass the bread and go straight for the delicious food.
La Rosa Nautica
Circuito de Playas
445-0149
Rice & Curry 
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