In honor of the season, I am reposting an article I recently received from a relative in Sri Lanka. It was written by an expat Sri Lankan, now living in Austrailia, Noel Crusz.
Here I am on the ocean liner THE PACIFIC SKY in the Coral Sea on a pre-Christmas voyage from Sydney to New Caledonia. The memories of how we celebrated Christmas in Sri Lanka come back. The house was painted, the walls white-washed with low black tar edgings all round the rooms and the chairs were re-cushioned. The travelling tailor came home, measured the rooms, and made the curtains on our old Singer sewing machine.
Red Mansion polish was applied on the cement floor, which got a shine from a heavy handled brush. Cake making was a ritual, where my mother laid the rules and we offered to help. We ate a good many cadjunuts and raisins when no one was looking. There was the wooden ice-box with sawdust and a heavy metal covering for slabs of ice.
Two weeks before Christmas the children were taken in a hired car to Pettah’s Main Street. The well known shoe store was T.G.M. Perera’s and we were fitted with the best shoes. Even Jamaliya’s Shoe Store in Wellawatta took in orders for boots, the teenage fashion of the thirties. Before World War II, there was Ono & Co. This Japanese toy shop owned by a Mr. Numano had a wonderful array of toys from Japan. The Main Street tailor measured us, as we provided China silk for our shirts. The silk of course was bought in early November from the Chinese peddlars who plied their trade on bicycles. Some of the Chinamen carried their bundles on their back, with a heavy stick for balance. Main Street in Pettah in the early thirties was very narrow. It had to cope with the tram lines and bullock carts.
Our Christmas shopping included a visit to X.P. Paivas for lunch and ice cream. Round the corner was The Rupee Store, where for one rupee you could buy many things. Millers, Cargills, Simes and Whiteaways dominated the Fort shopping. We went to Hunters and Siedles and The Roche Brothers shops for many items.
I cannot forget the shopping in the golden mile of Colpetty, Bambalapitiya and Wellawatta. The Wickremesinghe Brothers headed by George imported the famous Mende Radiograms from Germany. We cannot forget the well known shops in Wellawatta: M.P. Gomez, A.W. Jansz, J.B. De Pinto, Nooranis, Jamaliya’s Boot Works and many famous boutiques. As a boy I went with my father to A.W. Jansz’s store near High Street. We bought Dutch Edam Cheese, as an accompaniment for the Christmas breudher. I still remember Jansz bellowing to a tardy salesman: “What are you standing there shooting ‘papaws’! Jansz sold liquor and all types of hardware. We bought wire-netting to build chicken coops.
The shopping spree in Colombo included a visit to Pilawoos for a treat of buriyani. Elephant House played a significant part in booking Christmas cakes. Yet there was one last item that was in the shopping list: Fireworks. We gazed in wonder at the array of fireworks in the Fireworks Palace opposite the Fort Railway Station. Sparklers, Roman candles, sky rockets, Catherine wheels, squibs, crackers of every size were there in the showcase.
Christmas was on. The cake was made and sent to the bakery. The servants were pounding and roasting, making string hoppers and pittu, cutting up A.W. Jansz ham, with cutlets and seeni sambol.
Churches saw long queues at the Confessional. I remember well the Allied troops celebrating Christmas in Ceylon. In the Seminary in St. Francis Zavier in Bambalapitiya, the African troops came for Midnight Mass. In Bandarawela, the Italian prisoners of war, brought tears when they sang the Adeste Fideles.
As I look out now at a placid sea, the Christmas memories for an expatriate find no sequence. There were Christmas trees from up-country estates sent by train. Carol parties on Christmas Eve went about in lorries. Arthur Van Langenberg helped me to stage a massive Christmas pageant on Christmas Eve at St. Lucia’s Cathedral Square in Kotahena. There were hundreds in the cast. The beautiful teenager Camille Cramer played Mary, as she was seated astride on a real donkey, led by a young doctor, who played Joseph. As Gerry Paul hit the Police drums, the donkey took off, with Joseph clinging to its tail, and the audience, including Mary in ripples of laughter.
As midnight came, there were a never-ending sound of fireworks and sky rockets, that would surely have awoken the Christ Child. Carol parties came to the doorstep. At Kawdana, children in costume came around singing Sinhala carols. A hand cart with an illuminated crib was the backdrop. They even brought a portable harmonium.
Of course the homes saw families sitting for a feast of string hoppers, ham, breudher, cheese, mulligatany and cake. There were presents near the family Christmas tree. The postman, the dhoby, the baker, the fishmonger were the regular Christmas early birds. They all got cash, plus a tot of arrack or gin.
As children we waited eagerly for the Sakkili Band. These were the poor men and women who carried the night soil buckets, before the water closet and drainage era. Many householders were generous in the cash tips they gave them. An extra pint of arrack helped them in their dance! The famous Kukul Charlie also made his trek down all the lanes. Those were the days when Donovan Andree dominated and enriched the local entertainment scene. Donovan brought down the Ice Follies.Soon night came once more. We lit our fireworks, saw the servants lighting the big Roman candles and sky rockets. The radio blasted yuletide melodies.
As my ship went on its voyage, I was dreaming not of a ‘White Christmas’, but of the Christmases I spent in Sri Lanka. Nowhere in the world did I ever experience Christmas, as the Ceylonese prepare and enjoy it. I can still hear the hustle and bustle in Pettah, the cries of the street vendors and the pavement hawkers. The wailing of the mamma-pappa balloon, the rattle of the toy-carts, and the delicacies from the gram sellers are unforgettable.
An Aussie Christmas is pea-nuts compared to a Christmas in Ceylon. I do not wonder why my parents christened me Noel, and my sister Noeline. I am reminded of J.P. de Fonseka who gave lustre to Christmas writing. He edited the Christmas issue of St. Mary’s parish bulletin in Bambalapitiya. He wrote: “St. Thomas Aquinas theology avoids the Christmas cake and wine and toys and crackers and family reunions of children and parents… He considers the mystery of the GOD man, without whom the Christmas wines rejoice not and the crackers crack in vain.”
If you live in A Sri Lankan household, chances are someone is making Christmas Pudding in preparation for the holidays. Definitely a tradition passed on by the British, this is one of the richest, moistest desserts on the planet, and certainly not to be confused with dried out old fruit cake. As a child, I used to love how it was doused with brandy and brought flaming to the table to eat with either brandy sauce or custard.
Christmas Pudding
2 cups (500 ml) brown raisins
2 cups (500 ml) white raisins
1 cup (250 ml) currants
1 cup (250 ml) candied fruit mix, finely chopped
1 cup (250 ml) candied cherries, finely chopped
1 cup (250 ml) unsalted cashews, chopped
1 apple, grated
1 carrot, grated
1 tbsp. lemon peel, finely grated
1 tbsp. orange peel, finely grated
juice of 1 lemon
juice of 1 orange
1 tsp. ground cardamom, roasted
1 tsp. ground cloves, roasted
1 tsp. nutmeg, grated
1 cup (250 ml) sherry
1 cup (250 ml) brandy
1 cup (250 ml) butter
1 cup (250 ml) brown sugar
6 eggs
4 cups fresh breadcrumbs
2 cups (500 ml) flour
1.) In a deep bowl, combine the fruit, nuts, peel, juices, spices, sherry and brandy. Cover tightly and leave overnight.
2.) On the following day, cream the butter and sugar. Add eggs. Fold into fruit mixture.
3.) Fold in breadcrumbs and flour alternately.
4.) Fill stainless steel pudding bowls with mixture (2 inches from top) and cover each with 2 layers of parchment paper. Tie string around bowls so they are watertight. Cover with tin foil to further seal.
5.) Place bowls in saucepans filled with hot water up to about 1/4 of the height of each bowl.
6.) Steam puddings for 4 hours making sure that there is always enough water in the pans to cook them but not boil over.
7.) Remove from heat and cool.
8.) Remove original paper and cover with fresh parchment. Seal with foil and leave in a cool place.
9.) On Christmas day, steam pudding for a further 2 hours and serve with custard or brandy sauce.
lovely post! 🙂
Thank you for this nostalgic journey to old familiar places and names of friends remembered.
Thank you. I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Best,
Skiz
I love your Christmas Pudding, I have never eaten a Pudding or a Cake Like the ones Back in Ceylon.
Hi there my father was in Ceylon during the war. Its wonderful to get a feel of the place.
Do you have idea of the conditions for the men in the Royal Artillary?
Many thanks
Jean
A wonderful read, bringing back nostalgic memories of child and teenage years, growing-up in Wellawatte.
Dear Vernon ,,
Your comment sure brought back many memories .The potgar family at vaverset place I remember going to the sea scout head quarters with your dad and the boys one was my class mate at stc . Sure I would like to get in touch
B R L Fdo
bentotagerlf41@gmail.com
Hi Vernon and BRL. I remember you guys from STC. Wonderful times !!! Greetings from São Paulo, Brazil. Rohan C. Fernando. rohan@terra.com.br Mob. 55 11 9.9996.4439 Keep in touch.
Hi BRL. Received this email from Peter Nicol & saw your comments. I too remember the Potgar family down Vaverset place. I know one of the boys were in my class not sure if it was Vernon. If you are in contact with them please pass on my best wishes to them & my email. All the best to you & your family for the new year. Hoping to come to Sri Lanka in 2018/2019 will catch up then Randolph Alvis
Pure nostalgia – thank you!
Thanks for checking out the blog!
Best,
Skiz
Wonderful article, if only we can roll back time!
I just want to know if you are a sister of Terrance Lemphers who was a classmate of mine. I have lost contact with them and would love to get it touch. Valentine Lewis (email: valentinedlewis@gmail.com) Thanks.
The writer couldn’t have said it better. Christmas in Sri Lanka has been the best – such a lot of wonderful memories. Thank you so much for posting this and for the Christmas pudding recipe.
could you please send me the recipe for bread pudding , ceylon bread . pudding like my mum made. thanks ramon hatch.
Did you go to Arethusa College. I remember there was a Hatch brother in my class but cannot remember the name. I am Valentine Lewis – stayed then at Kalyani Lane. Thanks
Wonderful presentation and many thanks highlighting the goodness of OUR motherland/ SRI LANKA!!!
Thanks, Sena. Happy Holidays to you and yours!
Best,
Skiz Fernando
Very blessed people refer to Sri Lanka or Ceylon, as Our Motherland!
As a Kandy/Matale boy, we too enjoyed Christmas just like what has been described. After 50 years in Australia, my wife still makes the Christmas cake for the family every year and we enjoy the festive season with our friends. Thanks for the reminder. Trevor.
Thanks for checking out my blog, Trevor. Happy Holidays to you and yours.
Best,
Skiz Fernando
BORN IN 1937 IN SRI LANKA, EXPERIENCED ALL SAID THERE IN, BROUGHT A LUMP TO MY THROAT. THANKS SKIZ1
Thanks, Srijah
Born in 1939 and like Srijah have tasted your gastronomical delight
After nearly 36 years of living in the California, USA I will never forget my Ceylonese upbringing. And when items mentioned in your blog it brought back many memories that I would never forget, ever. BTW Noel Cruz is a relative on my mother’s side (cousin).
Thank you for your article. It sure conjurs up nostalgic memories of good old Ceylon.
Thanks for the beautiful memories of our good old Sri Lanka we can never enjoy Christmas the way we did in our mother land, thanks Noel its wonderful memories.
Always, enjoy re-reading this nostalgic account by Noel Cruz. Thanks.
What a wonderful experience reading your description of the good old days in Ceylon. My children who are born in Canada have no comprehension of the wonderful time we had at Christmas. You forgot to mention the Salt Pork.Percival Smith.Canada
A lovely post that I enjoyed reading.
Although i was born in the 70’s this article brought back so many precious memories. My mum who is an Ephraums and born in 1927 will recall a lot said in this article. I sure will make it a point to share this with her. Thank you!!
Yes this article did bring back many wonderful memories of Christmas in Sri Lanka. My wife has once again made the typical Sri Lankan Christmas cake and it is much appreciated by all who taste it in New Zealand.
Thanks for sharing this interesting article. It brings back lots of memories.
My wife Jan is Australian and makes the Ceylon Christmas Cake every year tastes yummy. With our 3 children and their families all born in Australia we have a Ceylonese Christmas similar to your article. We lived in 152 Station Rd Nugegoda our familiy names were Beven and Kellars. I am an old Joe.
Like Tammy I am a 70’s kid and first came from England on a 3 month holiday to Sri Lanka in 1978 at the age of 7, but memories of that holiday are so vividly etched in my mind. My parents settled down in Sri Lanka in 1980 and I was so lucky to have experienced so many Christmases in the most joyful manner as stated in the article….I felt like I was re living my childhood while reading Noel’s article. Thank you so much for the experience….words cannot express the appreciation and how grateful myself and many others who read this article would have felt and would continue to feel. BTW my mum was a Miss. Speldewinde and many like herself migrated to other parts of the wold in the early sixties. She just couldn’t stay away and came back to this beautiful Isle and that was how I came to experience what was probably the tail end of a by gone era….
Nice reading. I remember Noel Cruz. Nostalgia is setting in.
We left Ceylon in 1963 my Dad was a engin driver and we were stationed in Trincomalee. My Dad used to always help to mix the Christmas Cake and when it was ready we sent it to the bakers to be backed
, The best child hood ever Christmas was fun and laughter, going to mid night mass meeting our friends at church Checking out the boys.Best Christmas ever.
My Dad served in the CGR for 40 years as an Engineer, we travelled all over the island, living in grand old Railway quarters, in Anuradhapura; Cheddicullum (spelling could be wrong) Ragama; Dematagoda Rd, Borella; Moroatuwa, Born in Beruwela, lived near the Station, and the house is still there, temporary accommodation for ‘travellers'(2004), NanuOya; Dematagoda; Kandy near the railway line past a small Tunnel going to Mahayana. Loved the old Steam Engines, and loved our life on the trains. I left in 1967 and moved to the UK and then moved to Australia in 1974. Lovely happy memories of my childhood and family times, I was born in 1943, and enjoyed the peaceful happy childhood, that only dreams are made of. Chris Duff-Tytler
YES.I KNEW MR.DUFF TYTLER.A FINE PERSON.I TOO AM IN AUS.NOW.LOTS OF RAILWAYMEN MIGRATED TO AUS IN THE SIXTIES.MY LAST POSTING IN C.G.R. WAS CHIEF ENGINEER,WAY AND WORKS.NICE TO HEAR FROM YOU ALL.
I remember this era very well, having been born in 1936. It was the most wonderful time in Ceylon (I still prefer to call it that). How I wish the clock could be turned back. We had such a good time, which our children and grandchildren will never have the good fortune to experience. How disappointingly different the present era is, in everyway. Thank you for bringing back the nice memories of yesteryear.
No there is no country in the world i would love to be in for Christmas but Ceylon
I was born in 1928 and I have experienced most of the incidents that are mentioned by the Noel Cruz during this period such redecorating our houses, shopping in Pettah, Colombo and purchasing the household requirements such as clothing, food ingredients , toys, fireworks to mention a few. The customs we followed such as visiting our relatives and friends. Carols and church services etc. Nothing to beat Christmas in Sri Lanka as I and my family have lived and experienced previously in UK and Canada.
Having known Noel Cruz his father and his brother during my school days. Thank you for sharing this information
Wow! X’MS is coming: the geese are getting fat ! My Ma was a Committee member of the YWCA and went to Meetings at St. Pauls. We lived in Trinco Street, in Kandy. She went along with Ruth Keyt (the first registered short-time wife of George) to St. Pauls in “twin” rickshaws ( moving wt courage, side by side). Made cake; for use at St. Pauls too, and left-overs for the kids in the family ( Trinity College for the 4 boys and Hillwood for the sole girl).
My pseudo-name ( Anne A. Nornemus)
That was going down memory lane for me ….I always think of our homeland as Ceylon…great article love the recipe..anyone out there have the recipe for good old bread pudding please ….thr kne I make id nothing like the one my mum used to make .
Brought back the wonderful memories, which will always remain with me.Valerie nee Schokman
Bought back soo much memories! Thank you for this article. I remember going to Philip Neris for mass on Christmas day. Then the home cooked lunch then going to my paternal grandmothers place at Princes Gate Hultsdorf then travelling home to Elakanda by bus.Fireworks were lit next day. Allidon sparklers how i used to love them! Few roman candles and ones that went circling on the ground. Cant remember the name! Lovely lively times….i could go on and on. Charmaine Pauline Rodrigo nee Jansen.
“Those were the days my friend”
Preparation for Christmas took almost for ever. Cards had to be posted. PoThe puhul dhosi for the cake had to be made. The ice cream churn cleaned and made ready. New clothes and shoes bought. The trip to the Pettah included hot pancake roles at Paiva’s and a faluda at Bombay sweetmart. And depending on the time of day, a biryani at Pilau’s. And Seneviratna’s for exercise books for school.
A.W.Jansz at the top of High Street produced the glorious salt beef. The timber barrel it was in would have failed every CMC test, but we survived. In preparation, the mixed grill and Knickerbocker glory from fountain cafe was well worth waiting for. Preparation for Christmas took the whole of December. Fugethies and the Christmas cake was made early on the understanding that the Brandy and sherry should have time soak in and mature. Never understood why ants never ever attacked the cake, may be it was the spirits that fortified it. The children rallied round to lick the old brass pan in which the cake was beaten in. The garden trimmed and the whole place made tidy. The painting of the house and the new curtains added to the expectation. After lunch there was a long line of well wishers who partook in the dana. Making the ice cream was most enjoyable. The churn was placed in a timber half barrel, and filled ice sprinkled with salt to further reduce the temperature. The children took turns to turn the handle of the churn till the cream solidified. It did not last long as it had to be devoured before it melted.